Ulos is the traditional cloth of the Batak people of North Sumatra. Different kinds of ulos have different ceremonial significance. The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand woven and in the case of higher-quality examples are significant family heirlooms, to be worn at important events, such as funerals and weddings.
With increasing modernisation has come the decline in significance of the ulos, with many varieties no longer in demand.
History
According to Batak people, there are 3 sources of warmthness for human, sun, fire and ulos. Ulos said as warmthness source because they are living in the mountain with cold temperature. This natural condition makes the sunlight not enough give warmth especially at night. Then, they made something able to give them warmth, also believed able to give the men bravery and the women strength from infertility voodoos.
At first, Ulos only as an ordinary cloth. But later, it developed to become a symbol of love, traditional ceremony stuff, and society structural system symbol. Even Ulos believed has magical religious power and considered as 'sacred' and has special power to protect the user.
Many kind and motives has it own meaning. According to characteristic, condition, function, and some relation. When it is usedm given to whom, and which traditional ceremony like wedding, birth, death and other rituals will never run without Ulos. If Ulos used by a man, the upper called ande-ande, lower called singkot, used on head called tali-tali, bulang-bulang or detar. But, because it sacred value, not all Ulos can be used in daily activities. Ulos Jugja, Sadum, Ragidup, and Runjat only used in some occasions. In daily, male using Ulos in box pattern with black shirt named baju Kurung without shoes nor sandals.
Usage
Ulos used by female, the bottom called haen, the back called hoba-hoba and if it used as sacrf it called ampe-ampe. If used as head cover called saong, and if used to carry baby called parompa. In daily, the female using black long dress and head cover.
There are three ways to use Ulos. First, siabithononton (used). The Ulos used for this are Ragidup, Sibolang, Runjat, Djobit, Simarindjamisi, and Ragi Pangko. Second, sihadanghononton (used as head cover). The Ulos used for this are Sirara, Sumbat, Bolean, Mangiring, Surisuri and Sadum. Third, sitalitalihononton (tied at hip). Ulos used for this are Tumtuman, Mangiring and Padangrusa. Using Ulos in the right way is extremely important to make good looking and also to fulfill the philosophy meaning in Ulos. Ulos as love symbol it called mangulosi. In Batak culture, mangulosi (giving Ulos) is symbol of love to the receiver. In Mangulosi, there are common rules, mangulosi only can be done by people who has family relation or to give it to lower social status people. Like, parents can mengulosi their children, but not opposite. If want to mangulosi a child who give birth ffirst child, Ulos given is Ragidup Sinagok. Ulos given to special guest is Ulos Ragidup Silingo.
Production
Ulos made with manual loom machine. A spinner (Sorha) used to make cotton into yards. Pamanggung using to tie yards. Pagabe to hold the yard. Baliga, used to organize yards. Hatalungan ised to separating yards. Pamapan used to make the yard into cloth. Palabuan (Periuk tanah)used to saving coloring water. Ulos made of cotton and the coloring water made of barks, grass, roots, mud or leaves.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulos